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Just 7 kms
west of Bhubaneswar are the twin hills of Khandagiri
and Udaygiri, the next major Orissan historical
monument after Ashoka's rock-cut edict.The rocks
of the Khandagiri and Udaygiri hills were carved
and tunneled, to create this multi-storied ancient
apartment residence for Jain monks. They were
the work of the first known Orissan ruler, King
Kharavela, and probably begun in the first century
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Kharavela was a king of the Mahameghavahana dynasty,
who is known for expansion of the Kalinga empire and
his installation of public improvements, such as canal
systems. His queen was evidently quite a patron of
the arts, and probably had much to do with the impressive
sculptural decoration of the caves.
As you approach the site, Khandagiri, with its 15
caves will be on the left. Udaygiri will be on the
right. The 18 caves of Udaygiri include the famous
Hathi Gumpha ('Elephant Cave') with its famous inscription
of Kharavela.
From the inscription, we learn much about Kharavela's
military exploits, and also that his royal city had
gate towers, bathing and drinking tanks, and was the
scene of formally organized music and dance performances,
as well as sporting and social events. The city, says
the inscription, " was made to dance with joy".
Kharavela was evidently a skilled musician, and it
seems as if he created a remarkable center of the
arts.
The famous Rani Gumpha ('Queen's Cave'), also on Udaygiri,
has upper and lower stories, a spacious courtyard,
and elaborate sculptural friezes. The carvings show
popular legends, historical scenes, and religious
functions, as well as many dancers. The style seems
quite well-developed, and of a singular grace and
liveliness.
The Ganesha Gumpha, which is reached by a walkway
from the lower storey of the Rani Gumpha, is isolated,
and perhaps for this reason, better preserved. Its
two dwelling-spaces with verandah in front are reached
by a short staircase from the courtyard.
All of the caves are small, and follow the natural
configurations of the 'living rock'. The sculpture
throughout exhibits a strong, lively folk element,
which has been executed with a sure and confident
hand. Already, the spaces are filled with animal,
human, and divine personages and decorative details,
showing at an early stage the love of the Orissan
artist for richly elaborated scenes.
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